Madeira

My journey to Madeira began in Funchal, the island’s capital. I arrived in the early afternoon, greeted by the familiar scent of the ocean. The island’s rugged beauty was immediately apparent, with steep hills rising sharply from the coast. Having grown up in the old part of Brazil, Funchal felt both familiar and distinct, with its colonial architecture and vibrant colors. I had been told the weather in Madeira could change quickly. When I arrived, the sky was overcast, but it cleared later in the day, revealing stunning views of the surrounding mountains, dotted with houses.

The city is quite walkable, and I set out right away to explore, wandering the narrow streets and eventually arriving at the Mercado dos Lavradores (Farmer’s Market), where stalls displayed beautiful peppers hanging from the ceiling and exotic fruits unique to the island. Though the market is a tourist attraction—meaning prices are higher than elsewhere on the island—it’s still well worth a visit.

After spending my first day wandering the streets of Funchal, I woke early to catch the sunrise at Pico do Areeiro—one of the island’s highest peaks, reaching nearly 2,000 meters above sea level.

We arrived while it was still pitch-black. The area was already full of people, and with most people walking around without headlamps, it felt slightly uneasy to move around safely. It was also quiet cold, in sharp contrast to the warmth of Funchal the day before.

The sky gradually shifted from deep black to pale blue and then to gold as the sun rose above the clouds, casting light over the peaks around us. For the first time, I could see just how many people were around me. Yet, with the exception of the buzz of drones flying above, it was completely silent, making the experience feel all the more ethereal

Due to recent wildfires, the PR1 trail connecting Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo was closed. Standing at the trailhead, I could see the dramatic ridges and tunnels carved into the rock, hinting at the journey that lay beyond. I would have loved to hike the famous Pico-to-Pico route, but from what I was told, it may be years before it reopens.

The west side of Madeira is both rugged and impossibly beautiful, with its dramatic cliffs. We began in Ponta do Sol, a port town where banana groves stretch toward the sea.

Our guide drove us through steep, impossibly narrow roads as we climbed toward the Paul da Serra plateau, where yet another face of Madeira revealed itself—quite different from what we’d seen so far. Paul da Serra is flat and very windy. We were told that the government once planned an airport there but decided against it due to the high winds and ever-changing weather. It was rabbit hunting season—rabbits being one of the few remaining wild animals on the island—and we could see hunters scattered across the landscape.

We eventually reached the Fanal Forest, famous for its gnarled, twisted trees that, when shrouded in the mist so common to the area, create truly striking photographs. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see it enveloped in mist, but it was beautiful all the same.

The return journey along the northwestern coast was full of impressive waterfalls, black sand beaches tucked into hidden coves, and villages clinging to the mountainside. We ended the day at Cabo Girão’s famous skywalk, suspended 580 meters above the ocean—one of the highest sea cliffs in the world.

The east side of Madeira feels quite different. It’s more rural, with traditional houses scattered across the landscape. We passed through small villages like Ribeiro Frio and Faial, winding along narrow off-road paths surrounded by dense patches of Laurissilva forest. The views were striking—layers of green and picturesque houses clinging to the hillsides. Our guide talked about the levadas—the network of water channels that crisscross the island—and how they’ve shaped life in Madeira for generations. We stopped often, either for short walks or photos, never in a rush.

We reached Santana by midday. Rather than heading straight into the more crowded parts of town, we took back roads and quieter paths. This area is known for its traditional houses, painted in bright colors with thatched roofs. We stopped to talk to a farmer who was tending to a few pigs, one of which was pregnant. He was kind enough to show us around. His “basement,” where food is stored during the summer, also serves as shelter for the animals during winter. It’s a rough life of hard work and little comfort, and it made me reflect on the privileges we often take for granted.

Madeira is also known for its rum production, and we visited an old factory before continuing on. In the afternoon, the pace slowed even more. We followed the coastal roads through Porto da Cruz and Machico, stopping at viewpoints and soaking in the landscape. Caniçal was probably my favorite view of Madeira. The red sand contrasting with the deep blue water made the scene feel almost surreal. We were told Star Wars had been filmed there, and I can see why—it looked like another planet.

Before heading back, we paused for a glass of poncha, the traditional Madeiran drink, sweet and sharp at once. The day ended with relaxed conversation in the car, trading stories and tips for the rest of our stay on the island.

The Rabaçal Valley hike was a memorable experience, though the large number of hikers at the start made it feel a little less special at times. We once again crossed the Paul da Serra plateau before beginning a long descent into the valley, following one of Madeira’s many levadas. This particular trail dates back to the 16th century and led us deep into the Laurissilva forest, where moss-covered stones and the occasional bird call echoed through the trees. Here, the crowds thinned significantly, and the experience became far more peaceful and enjoyable.

Along the way, we passed waterfalls tumbling down cliffs, crossed small wooden bridges. The highlight was the spot known as 25 Fontes (25 Springs), where dozens of thin streams spill down a mossy wall into a pool below.

Near the end of the hike, we entered an old, dark, and wet tunnel carved into the rocks by hands, where headlamps were necessary. Emerging on the other side felt like stepping into another world—a foggy path surrounded by towering cliffs. The weather was so different there compared to the other side of that tunnel.

The hike took most of the day, but the pace was relaxed, and our guide gave us plenty of time to take photos, rest, or simply absorb the scenery quietly. By the time we reached the end and were driven back to Funchal, we were tired, a bit muddy, and completely content.